My Riviera Rhine & Moselle River Cruise Experience on the Emily Brontë

The Holiday Space
Oct 14
12 min read

Updated: Oct 20

In August, I had the chance to step into the world of Riviera river cruising on a special educational trip, and I can honestly say it was one of the most enriching travel experiences I’ve ever had. On 19th August 2025, I flew out to Germany to begin my journey along the Rhine and Moselle Rivers with Riviera Travel. I wanted to bring back an honest account of what river cruising is really like – the ship, the food, the atmosphere, the excursions – so that my clients, readers and social media community can get a genuine sense of what’s in store. Now I completely understand the appeal.

Spoiler alert: I loved it.

Why Riviera Names Their Ships After Authors

First, a little about Riviera themselves. If you’ve seen their fleet, you’ll notice all the ships are named after famous literary figures: Emily Brontë, Jane Austen, Oscar Wilde, William Wordsworth, and so on. It’s a nod to the company’s strong British identity and love of culture – something that comes through in the thoughtful touches onboard. Sailing on the Emily Brontë felt particularly special; like the author, she’s understated but full of depth and elegance.

From the moment I stepped onboard the MS Emily Brontë, my home for the next few days, I realised this was going to be a unique and fabulous way to travel. It was warm, welcoming, comfortable – yet with a very British elegance that felt instantly familiar. And the beauty of river cruising? You’re never far from the land, you can step straight into the heart of a new town each day.

Here’s my full diary-style account of the trip, plus my top tips for anyone considering booking this itinerary.

Day One – 19th August: Arrival in Cologne

After flying into Germany with two lovely travel agents from other travel companies, we were greeted by our Riviera rep, Alex, and joined the rest of our group for the transfer by coach to Cologne. The process was seamless – bags whisked onto the coach, clear instructions, and within an hour or so we were pulling up to the riverbank where the Emily Brontë was docked.

First impressions? Beautifully sleek lines, a glistening white exterior and the kind of understated glamour that doesn’t scream luxury but quietly suggests it.

My cabin, number 221 on the Ruby Deck, was beautifully designed — spacious, with floor-to-ceiling French windows that slid open so I could watch the river drift past.

Modern décor, soft lighting and a surprisingly roomy shower gave it that boutique-hotel-on-the-water feel. Cabins are deceptively spacious with everything you need for your stay, and the most comfortable beds!

That afternoon, with unpacking done and after a bit of lunch, I headed out to explore Cologne. The ship was docked just a short stroll from the city centre, so within around 20-25 minutes I was standing in front of Cologne’s famous cathedral, a Gothic masterpiece that towers over the skyline. The streets were buzzing, full of cafés, boutique shops and the scent of freshly baked pretzels drifting from the bakeries.

Back onboard, dinner was a beautifully relaxed yet elegant affair — my first taste of Riviera’s five-star dining. The service was exceptional, and it was so lovely getting to know our group, the friendly waiting staff and fellow guests over delicious food and wine. After dinner, we wandered up to the sundeck, where Cologne sparkled in the night — the cathedral and bridge lights reflecting on the water. We stayed there as the ship gently pulled away at 9.30pm, waving goodbye to the city and watching it slowly fade into the distance.

Day Two – 20th August: Cochem, the romantic Moselle Valley

This was a full day of sailing as we travelled South to Cochem, giving me the chance to properly explore the ship. The pace of river cruising is wonderfully gentle – no rushing, no endless corridors to get lost in. The Emily Brontë has just three decks, each beautifully designed, with a central lounge and bar where guests gather for talks, drinks, or simply to watch the scenery glide by through the panoramic windows.

On the top deck, the sundeck stretched the full length of the ship, lined with comfortable loungers, shaded seating areas, and plenty of quiet spots to simply sit back and soak in the view. We were truly blessed with glorious weather – the sun shining warmly as we glided past vine-covered hillsides, storybook castles and peaceful German villages. I can’t quite put into words the serenity of lying on a sun lounger, feeling the sun on my face while the world drifted slowly by. After such a busy summer juggling work and family life, it was the first time in months I allowed myself to completely switch off — and it felt wonderful.

One of the things I loved most about river cruising is that you’re never really “at sea” — there’s always scenery to admire, and the ship moves so smoothly you barely notice you’re sailing at all. I’m someone who can get a touch of seasickness on ocean cruises, but I was delighted to find I didn't even feel the slightest hint of queasiness. It’s so calm and gentle, you almost forget you’re on a boat.

That afternoon, we arrived in Cochem having sailed down the Moselle, which winds its way through steep vineyards and storybook towns. It’s narrower and more intimate than the Rhine, which makes the scenery even more striking.

Cochem, one of the prettiest stops on the itinerary. Imagine half-timbered houses, flower-filled balconies and the fairytale Reichsburg Castle perched above the town. I joined a walking tour, which offered breath-taking views over the river valley, and then wandered the cobbled streets with their wine taverns and ice cream shops.

Back on board, we attended a welcome meeting with Captain Lorian, Hotel Manager Alin and the Riviera Travel team. Dinner was another highlight – a tasting menu that could rival any Michelin restaurant. Riviera’s chefs pride themselves on combining European classics with lighter modern dishes, and every meal was beautifully presented.

At 9pm, we were treated to an evening of German Folklore songs, the perfect end to a perfect day.

CLICK HERE to book your own River Cruise with me

Day Three – 21st August: Trier, Oldest town in Germany

Next up was Trier, Germany’s oldest city, founded by the Romans and often referred to as the “Rome of the North.” After a delicious lunch onboard and mooring in Traben-Trarbach, we set off in groups for the hour-long transfer to Trier. The guided tour was excellent, taking us through the city’s fascinating Roman heritage — including the Porta Nigra, an enormous and remarkably well-preserved Roman city gate that once formed part of the ancient city walls.

We also visited the impressive basilica and cathedral, both steeped in centuries of history. It was incredible to step so deeply into the past, and what really struck me was how effortless it all felt — you simply step off the ship, meet your guide and you’re instantly immersed in another time and place. No stress, just easy exploration.

That evening, we were back onboard and ready for dinner after all the walking and souvenir shopping. The lounge came alive with the gentle hum of conversation, clinking glasses and soft piano music drifting through the air.

We even joined in a light-hearted German-themed quiz, testing what we’d learned during the day — the perfect way to end a perfect day.

Day Four – 22nd August: Bernkastel

Day four brought us to one of my favourite stops of the whole cruise — Bernkastel, a charming medieval town set amid rolling hills and endless vineyards in the middle of the Moselle. It’s everything you imagine when you picture the Moselle wine region — cobbled lanes lined with half-timbered houses, flower-filled window boxes and the scent of grapes ripening in the sun. After breakfast, we met our local guide for a fantastic walking tour. He was brilliant — knowledgeable, funny and clearly passionate about his hometown. We wandered through the market square, past the colourful gabled houses and centuries-old wine taverns, learning about Bernkastel’s long history of winemaking and its Roman roots.

Bernkastel even has a touch of movie magic — it featured briefly in Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows: Part 1. In the scene where Harry enters Voldemort’s mind and glimpses the wandmaker Mykew Gregorovich’s lodgings, the distinctive pointed half-timbered house seen on screen is actually found right in Bernkastel’s market square. With its narrow frame and two slim front windows, it’s instantly recognisable to any fan wandering through this fairytale town.

Afterwards, a few of us decided to tackle the hike up to the Burgruine Landshut, the ruined castle that sits high above the town. It was a fairly energetic climb, but absolutely worth every step for the breath-taking, Instagram-worthy views over the Moselle Valley. From the top, the river curled below us in perfect loops, surrounded by vineyards stretching as far as the eye could see. We stood there for ages, taking photos, chatting and just soaking up the moment — the kind of view that stays with you long after the trip ends.

After all that exertion, we wandered back down into town, ready for something a little more indulgent — the optional wine tasting. This region is famous for its Riesling wines, so naturally, that’s what we sampled. Each glass had its own character — crisp, floral and full of that signature Moselle minerality. We even played a fun little game where we had to guess the price of each wine before the big reveal. It might have felt a bit early in the day for wine tasting, but somehow, we all managed just fine! It was such a fun and relaxed way to finish off another wonderful morning on the Moselle.

Day Five – 23rd August: Koblenz & Boppard

Our next stop was Koblenz, a city steeped in history and beautifully positioned where the Rhine and Moselle rivers meet — one of the most scenic confluences in Europe. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrated for its medieval architecture, grand squares and riverside promenades. Founded over 2,000 years ago by the Romans, Koblenz has seen its share of history, from imperial strongholds to wartime rebuilding. Our walk took us through the old town, past elegant churches, fountains and statues that tell the story of its past.

One of the highlights was taking the cable car across the Rhine to the Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, one of the largest preserved fortresses in Europe, offering panoramic views of the rivers below. The city had a slightly more industrial feel compared to the quaint Moselle towns, but it still retained plenty of charm — a fascinating blend of old and new.

After our morning exploring, we headed back onboard for a leisurely lunch in the Bistro — the perfect spot for a lighter meal with incredible views through the panoramic windows. The atmosphere was relaxed and cheerful and the service as wonderful as ever.

Later in the afternoon, guests gathered for an Ice Cream Social on deck, enjoying scoops of homemade gelato as the sun warmed the riverbanks. Moments like that summed up what I loved about this cruise — simple pleasures, great company and the perfect pace.

At around 1pm, we set sail for Boppard, arriving just a few hours later. This pretty riverside town had a completely different feel being small, peaceful and full of character. We took a leisurely walk through the old town, stopping for a cold German beer and a few snacks in a local café. We visited a beautiful church with intricate stained glass and a sense of calm inside. We wandered through cobbled streets lined with chocolate-box houses and half-timbered buildings straight out of a postcard.

Back onboard that evening, another scrumptious dinner awaited, followed by live music from Marina, the talented onboard musician, who filled the lounge with soft melodies as we relaxed and reflected on another unforgettable day along the Rhine.

Day Six – 24th August: Cruising the Rhine Gorge & Rüdesheim

This was perhaps the most scenic day of the entire cruise — the iconic Rhine Gorge, a UNESCO World Heritage Site celebrated for its jaw-dropping landscapes, steep vineyards and countless hilltop castles. We spent the whole morning up on the sundeck, completely mesmerised by the view. For hours, we drifted past castle after castle, each one with its own story and legend, perched dramatically above the riverbanks. The commentary from our cruise director brought history to life — tales of medieval knights, ancient fortresses and local folklore. My camera barely left my hands; every turn of the river revealed another picture-perfect scene.

As we admired the view, the crew treated us to a Rüdesheim coffee, the town’s famous local speciality. It’s a rich blend of freshly brewed coffee, sugar, and a generous shot of Asbach Uralt brandy — a spirit distilled right in Rüdesheim — topped with a swirl of whipped cream and chocolate flakes. Served steaming on deck against the Rhine Gorge backdrop, it was the perfect morning treat.

By lunchtime, we moored in Rüdesheim, a place bursting with life and energy. Unlike the smaller, sleepy villages we’d seen along the Moselle, Rüdesheim felt larger and more vibrant — the air buzzing with music, chatter and the clinking of glasses from the wine taverns. This town is famous for its Drosselgasse, a narrow, cobbled street filled with traditional wine bars where live music spills into the evening air. Some guests opted for a tour of Siegfried’s Mechanical Music Museum, which houses a fascinating collection of self-playing instruments — from tiny music boxes to enormous orchestrions that fill entire rooms. It’s wonderfully eccentric and well worth a visit.

I chose instead to spend the afternoon exploring the town at a slower pace. I found a sunny café, ordered another (even stronger!) Rüdesheim coffee and happily sat people-watching as locals and tourists strolled by. The town is full of beautiful boutique shops, ideal for picking up gifts and local wines to take home. One of the most enchanting stops was the year-round Christmas shop, overflowing with handcrafted ornaments, twinkling lights and festive displays that made it feel like stepping straight into December — even in summer. Rüdesheim was a wonderful place to wander, full of colour, character and charm at every turn.

Sadly, our final evening arrived all too soon. Back onboard, we dressed up for the Chef’s Signature Dinner, a beautifully presented multi-course meal showcasing the finest local flavours. The atmosphere was happy yet sentimental as the onboard team came out for their well-deserved applause. Their warmth, professionalism and attention to detail truly made the trip special. Later that night, we stepped ashore one last time to soak up the spirit of Rüdesheim. We found a local bar in the town square with a fantastic live band playing a mix of German tunes and familiar classics. Guests and locals danced and sang along; the perfect ending to an unforgettable journey.

Day Seven – 25th August: Cologne & Departure

Back to Cologne where my journey began. With a few hours free before my transfer, I revisited the cathedral, stocked up on chocolates and souvenirs and had one last stroll along the riverfront. Then it was time to say goodbye to the Emily Brontë and head home – a little reluctantly, I admit.

Why River Cruising Works So Well

After experiencing it first-hand, I can see why river cruising has such a loyal following:

Close to land: You’re never out at sea. The scenery is constantly changing, and you dock right in the centre of towns.
No seasickness: The water is calm, and the ship moves so smoothly you barely notice you’re on board.
Effortless travel: No unpacking and repacking, no airport stress – just glide into a new destination each day.
Small ship atmosphere: With fewer than 170 passengers, the atmosphere is friendly and intimate. You’ll often bump into the same people, which creates a nice community feel.

Dining Onboard – Including the Riverview Kitchen

The food onboard the Emily Brontë truly exceeded expectations, and one of the highlights was the Riverview Kitchen (also known as The Bistro), located on the Diamond Deck. This intimate dining venue offers a relaxed yet refined experience, complete with an open kitchen and an outdoor terrace overlooking the river.

By day, The Bistro serves light, speciality lunch dishes, while in the evening it transforms into an elegant setting for a five-course dinner. Reservations are required due to its limited seating, but it’s absolutely worth booking early — a perfect spot for a romantic or peaceful meal away from the main restaurant buzz.

My Top Tips for Riviera Cruising

Expect a friendly, mostly British crowd aged 60–90.
Excursions may involve walking or cobbled streets — bring comfy shoes.
The food is exquisite and caters for all dietary needs.
You’ll receive a refillable bottle — top it up with chilled lemon water onboard.
Don’t overpack! Save suitcase space for bringing back gifts, wine and chocolates from the beautiful towns you’ll visit.
Book onto the tours – they cater to varying levels of physical ability, and you’ll learn so much about the history and fascinating facts of each region.
Pack smart-casual outfits for dinner — it’s relaxed but elegant.
Going solo? There are likely to be other solo travellers onboard so be sure to introduce yourself. It’s easy to make new friends at meal times, evenings or on excursions.
In Germany, many shops only accept cash, so take some euros for souvenirs, café stops, and even the occasional loo break (yes, there’s often a small charge!).
Order breakfast to your cabin at least once – sit back, relax, and enjoy the peaceful scenery from your window.
After a day exploring, treat yourself to a massage in the onboard spa – highly recommended.
If you’d like to dine at The Bistro, book as soon as you board, as seats are limited and it fills up quickly.
Spend time on the sundeck – mornings gliding past castles and vineyards are simply unforgettable.
Don't forget to take your audio devices from the cabin with you on the tours, as I did one day!

Final Thoughts

For anyone considering a river cruise, I can’t recommend it enough. It’s relaxing, beautifully organised and full of scenic and cultural highlights. The MS Emily Brontë offered the perfect balance of British comfort, fine dining, and relaxed exploration.

If you love slow travel, great food and the idea of waking up somewhere new each day — without ever feeling rushed — this is the trip for you.

CLICK HERE to book your own River Cruise with me

Here's the full photo gallery for your perusal: